Where to start ...
Marty had been talking to one of the interpreters working for Kazzinc, Kate. He told her how he enjoyed yoga and that he had been doing some home practice. Kate told him that yoga in Kazakhstan is not really something men usually do :) She said that she was going to take me to a class when I got here, but that Marty shouldn't really go.
So last night was the night. And I now know why Marty shouldn't go...
Kate met me outside of the apartment at about 7:15pm and we decided to catch the tram to class. It was super slippery yesterday because it was a little warmer, which meant the snow started to melt, but then we had some serious cold snaps that froze the melted water and turned it into slick ice. So we ended up walking arm in arm to catch each other when we slipped. I have to admit I did slip a lot more than she did. But, knock on wood, I haven't ended up on my butt yet :)
So we walked over to the tram tracks to wait for the next one. As we were standing there I was chatting like crazy because I had been at home all day by myself, so it was time to catch up in chatter. I even said at one point that the cold made my mouth feel like when you get a shot at the dentist and you feel like you can't talk properly anymore, to which Kate replied "maybe you should stop talking then." Oh. That didn't stop me for too long though.
The tram arrived - an old soviet relic that was still running in Oskemen peak hour - I paid my 45 tenge, and hopped on. We were on the tram for quite a while, with a lot of people giving me funny looks because I was speaking in English to Kate. When we finally reached our destination, I hopped off the tram, went for a massive slide and was luckily caught by Kate.
Continuing to make conversation, I asked what in retrospect was a stupid question, "will the class be in Russian?" ... "but of course!" ...
We walked a few blocks through a suburban neighbourhood, went around the back of what looked like an apartment block, and walked up the front steps of what looked like the back door of a speakeasy - nondescript building, no signage, padded door. I went in first and was greated by at least 20 Kazakh women, crowded into a room no larger than my small bedroom at home (that also had a large reception desk in it), sipping herbal tea from large ceramic bowls. A class had just ended and drinking tea is the final ritual. Kate gave the women sitting at the crowded front desk my name and told her I was Australian ... I think. The lady smiled at me and said...very...slowly...400. I paid and then struggled to take my knee high boots of inside the packed sardine room, hopping around on one foot - I think I knocked into quite a few people trying to enjoy their tea in peace. All I could think to say was "sorry, sorry, sorry". I haven't quite mastered the Russian for sorry yet. No one really understood the profuse apologies I was making. Once my tight boots were off, we made our way up a narrow hall way into another room full of women in their underwear getting changed. Again, in another sardine tin, I hopped about trying to take my tight jeans, socks, gloves, jacket etc off. The class had already started by the time we got inside. I had brought my yoga mat with me, but when we got inside, no one was using mats. Women were just standing on the room's carpet.
Once we were finally in the room, Kate was standing next to me so I was relieved that I could just lean over and ask her any questions I had throughout the class. Within two minutes the instruction came over, grabbed Kate, and moved her to the front of the room. I'm on my own, at the back of the class, I've taken my glasses off and can only see the three women around me clearly - three very well built/robust Russian women in gray tracksuits - and the instructor is yelling in Russian.
The class had started with a warm up - we were standing with our feet wide apart and raising our arms above our head with an inhale, bringing our arms down on the exhale. All I could get from the teacher was tone, thrown over the russian language. So I hear "blahdeblahdeblah HATTA YOGA blahdeblahdeblah". She occasionally whacks her thighs and points aggressively at people in the class or whacks her stomach and says "blahdeblahdeblah HATTA YOGA!!!!!". We continued warming up, eventually standing in a deep goddess pose that was half Utkatasana. We stayed in the pose for a long time - women around me were moaning in pain. As it was, I was sweating and fogging up my glasses. Amongst the moans and gasps of pain, the instructor was keeping us motivated "blahdeblahdeblah HATTA YOGA!!!!! blahdeblahdeblah blahdeblahdeblah!!!!!!!!!!!" (Kate told me after class the our instructor was saying that 'being lazy is easy, don't be easy!!!!!!! You can do it!!!'
But language difficulties and a strange approach to yoga aside, I know a collective female bonding experience when I see it. As the instructor counts us down, gasps increase, she says something to make a joke of the pain, and then we all collectively laugh at how hard we are all finding it together. We finally get to stand up and all look around at each other, with a look on our face that says "We did it!!!" SMILE :)
After some 'stretching', which is what they call the actual yoga part of the session, we move into some join massage/stretching. I am grateful that Kate comes rushing over to stand by me before I even realise what we are doing. I didn't think I could partner with the 'robust' ladies. The first activity is a leg stretch/back massage. I lie on my stomach, Kate grabs my legs and pulls it UP! Then she has to push into my back with her foot. At first, this practice reminds me a bit of Okido Yoga. But with a soviet twist! I nearly felt like I was winded! I must have been making some doubtful noises because Kate said, "You can get revenge next." The next 'massage' focused on the thyroid area near the groin. I was so grateful (again) that Kate was my partner because she could actually explain what on earth was going on. The instructor was demonstrating on another women is class. The impression I got from her actions was that the pelvis would be pushed on very hard until she gave the signal to let go and then "Whooshka!", the blood would flow again into that area. Kate said that apparently it was very good for the womb ... Good news I guess considering my baby clocks' a tickin'... The instructor gave the signal - Kate pushed - HARD - my pelvis felt like it was going to crack! And then "Whooshka!" Womb treated!
It was then my turn to exact my "revenge". I just don't have that rough soviet in me. I always though I was a tough Russian women, but I just couldn't do it as hard as Kate seemed to want me to do it, "Go on! I'm tough woman!"
The next partner stretch was against the wall, lifting legs in the air - pretty straight forward. I was chatting to Kate with my leg in the air when the instructor started talking to Kate and then I heard Kate say "Afstrali" - Australian!
"Ah - I love Australia!" The instructor was now very excited to have me in the class.
We did a bit more of a warm down, I guess you could call it, and then all of a sudden the instructor was clapping and everyone in the class followed. Every face was happy, relieved and relaxed. We then got to out for our post-class tea. It was a delicious chamomile tea served in a large asian styled ceramic bowl. The instructor started asking me what I thought and I told her I thought it was really fun (which it was) and that she was a tough instructor. She liked that. She said that some people are very lazy and is her job to keep them motivated!
All in all - it was a fantastic experience :) I was so happy to get out of the apartment, talk to people and bond with a class full of women.
Marty got to have a boys night out with pizza, pool and beer.
We are going bowling tonight which will be fun. Marty just got home from a very busy day and we have to get ready to go out.
Chat soon!
Lila
xx
PS Below is another picture of the awesome, dark, bohemian coffee shop that I went to yesterday.
Loving every bit of your daily blog Lila! :) Can't wait for the next instalment.
ReplyDeleteHeaps of love to you both. Ann XXXXX